Copper wire, though expensive, is most suitable for wiring a bonsai-to-be
such as the juniper above, because it remains soft. Galvanized iron or
plastic coated wire may be used, but they tend to look rather ugly and
detract from your tree. Remember, the larger coniferous trees will be
wearing their wires for 12 - 18 months, so please take care in choosing the
best "look" for your bonsai
To give wired branches a good chance to grow into their new positions, leave
wires in place for a full growing season. Then, in early autumn, remove them
to avoid any constriction during the next growth phase. If wires are left in
plce too long, the bark will show unsightly spiral scars for years. With
stiff copper wire, it is best to cut it carefully from branches to avoid
inflicting damage by uncoiling. Aluminum wire can be uncoiled, starting at
the outmost end and carefully uncoiling toward the anchor end.
The art of creating miniature indoor
trees began over two thousand years ago in China. Now known as bonsai, this
term derived from the Chinese word pen’jing, meaning “a tree or shrub
planted in a shallow dish or tray”. In the 12th century, the Japanese put
their own slant on the tradition by growing the trees outdoors.
Those that we’re offering on our
site will make exciting additions to any interior. However, they do need
regular attention and care, so make sure you’ve got the time to look after
them properly to avoid disappointment later on.
Think carefully before deciding
where to stand your bonsai. It will need lots of light but should be kept
out of the midday sun. The temperature should be warm, so avoid windowsills,
where conditions can fluctuate. If your chosen location has only once source
of light, remember to regularly turn your tree to ensure balanced growth.
Rethink the location if your tree starts to lose its leaves.
If wired branches still need
more coaxing to achieve the desired positions, they cn be rewired at the
appropriate time for another year of training. When you rewire a branch,
vary the wire position from that of the previous year.
Plants traditionally used for bonsai include: camellia, Chinese elm, dwarf
pomegranate, English box, fig, flowering quince, fuchsia, Japanese black
pine, Japanese maple, juniper, star magnolia, wisteria and zelkova
Although bonsai is a very delicate and precise
hobby in many aspects, usually the plants are very forgiving - so don't be
afraid to prune.
You can train the plants that you collect from nurseries, home etc… into any
style that you may see fit. A good way to determine the style you may want
to use is by looking at the plant and considering what style it may look
good as and what it looks like when it naturally grows in the wild.
When you have decided on a style that you want to turn your plant into,
you can start pruning it - being careful that you really consider which
branches need to go and stay so the plant can keep in balance and be
pleasant to the eye. Try to prune the plant into a tree like form - or a
form that is commonly seen in nature - to keep with the principles of
bonsai.
You do not need to prune your bonsai every day as many people think. Two or
three times a year is enough - usually at the start of spring, end of summer
and sometimes during late autumn or winter.
After the bonsai has been potted you can now add moss or other small
plants around it to give the impression of a fully sized tree in nature.
Then just water the tree in and leave in a sheltered position where it can
rejuvenate and you would have just created your first bonsai!
Make sure that you research the specific requirements of the tree you buy
and that you remember to remove the wire before it cuts into the tree - this
can cause an ugly scar.
Whatever else you need to know - you will be sure to find it here - at
Bonsai Planet.
Pottery used for bonsai comes from Japan and China. These pots are
usually handmade and finished with unique glazes. In the East, a family who
makes pottery is distinguished by the quality and colors of their glazes and
closely guards the secret of its creation.
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